My trip to Europe: L'Eden in Coublevie, France

Few years ago, we discovered L'Eden, a seafood restaurant located in Coublevie, Isère (check out my previous post). This is a spot that my family knows well, so we decided to go there to celebrate Mother's Day. Know that Mother's Day in France is always the last week end of May. 

The place was packed with families when we arrived, but we were the last to leave, after a three hour lunch...

The service was a bit challenging because the restaurant was clearly understaffed on a pretty demanding day. 

While making up our mind with the menu, we ordered the house cocktail that was made with champagne and curaçao, the latter giving a nice light blue color. Floating in the glass was a raspberry that went up and down as time went. 

We also ordered a bottle of wine, a Rasteau from 2010:

The brand is ORTAS that is an anagram for Rasteau.

Few moments after the brought the drink, they gave us a delicious velouté de champignons (cream of mushroom):

They had a set menu for the event, although they agreed to allow Jodi to order a vegetarian dish, as she did not like what they were proposing. Similar to last time, we ordered a Saint-Marcellin cheese salad. 

My trip to Europe: Le Rempart, Tournus, France

Our last Michelin Star restaurant we tried in our trip in Bourgogne was Le Rempart in Tournus. Nice small city of approximately 6,200 inhabitants, located along the Saône river; it was very quiet at the time we were there, if not for the activity surrounding a small cruise boat where one could dine while sailing on the river.

The restaurant Le Rempart is located in a hotel with the same name. There is in fact the restaurant, as well as a low key bistro, located at the opposite side. 

The impressive building was a 15th century guardhouse, built on the ramparts that were surrounding the city, hence the name Le Rempart (The Rempart), and their logo that is everywhere. 

The decor is pretty elegant and it is definitely one level up from Pierre the restaurant that we visited the day before. At the entrance is a very small lounge where you can enjoy a drink from their large selection of alcohol. 

Then, the tables, not too close to each other. 

The menu, crafted by Chef Sylvain Gohier is very elegant, with an outstanding presentation that would make you think that the Chef is a painter and the plate his canvas. Again here, the food is not only for the pleasure of the palate, but also for the pleasure of the eyes. Showcasing incredible creativity, the Chef interprets dishes from different regions of France, sourcing the high quality ingredients he is using from French producers. 

We decided to start our meal with the house cocktail, made with whiskey, sweet wine (it might have been martini) and Pacherinc. 

With it, they served us some amuse-bouche. 

It was composed of:

Goat cheese

My trip to Europe: Le Cloître in Cluny, France

We were in Cluny, famous for its abbey founded in the 10th Century, one of the largest before being destroyed.

Since the end of the 19th century, it is one of the centers of the Ecole des Arts et Métiers, that was organizing a party for the end of the school year. Cluny is also known for its stables, that we did not get a chance to visit.

We arrived there in the morning, walking around this small town and enjoying the market that was setup in front of the abbey.

We looked for restaurants and first wanted to go to the Bar du Centre, but the staff did not seem to be eager to serve customers. That is when we saw Le Cloître, a restaurant serving traditional French dishes, as well as crêpes.

The waiter warned us that the service would be slow because they had a party of 16. I appreciated the heads up as, at least, if we stayed, we knew what to expect.

At Le Cloître, they propose different prix-fixe menus. Jodi went for the appetizer-dessert and I went for the appetizer-entrée as we would probably share the dessert. For her appetizer, Jodi ordered the fried Saint-Marcellin cheese salad.

My trip to Europe: Pierre in Mâcon, France

My brother Hervé and sister in law Rosa proposed to spend the week end in Bourgogne (Burgundy) and to try some Michelin Star restaurants there. We had a wide choice of restaurants, as the region has many with one or more Michelin Stars, some of them offer reasonably priced menus. For instance, Pierre that is the subject if this post, has a menu at 29 Eur ($40) including taxes and service, with appetizer, entrée and dessert. 

I was also thrilled to have Jodi discover Bourgogne, a region known for its wine, where I did not set foot in years. 

So, our first Michelin Star restaurant was Pierre in Mâcon. To give us some appetite, we first visited this small city, on the riverside of La Saone. 

I thought that Pierre was the name of the Chef and owner of the restaurant. Well, no: it used to be the name of the owner, before Chef Christian Gaulin and is wife Isabelle purchased the place. It is not a big place, with probably 10 to 12 tables spread across the room, so you do not have the impression of eating with your neighbors... That day, they had a party of twenty setup in a private room, but this did not disrupt at all the impeccable service we got. 

The menu is what I would call New French, in the sense that it is not the traditional dishes you would find in some restaurants, like fromage de tête, coq au vin, canard à l'orange, etc...But elegant dishes made with traditional ingredients, from the terroir, such as foie gras or volaille de Bresse (poultry from Bresse, a fairly known origin). There, the pleasure of the eyes is as important as the taste. 

To start off, we decided to try their house cocktail, suggested by Isabelle Gauchin herself who, while her husband is the Chef d'Orchestre in the kitchen, plays the role of Maître D and sommelier. 

The cocktail was made with crémant de Bourgogne and griotte. 

Very fruity and with not too much alcohol, it was the perfect drink to start. 

Then, they brought us some bread. We had the choice between one made with Sel de Guérande (salt of Guérande):

Or olive oil and herbes de Provence (blend of herbs from Provence that you can find in fine groceries or Whole Foods). 

It was served with some smokey salted butter made with smoked Sel de Guérande. 

Then, they brought us some Mises en bouche or amuse bouche:

My trip to Europe: Le Festival des Pizzas in Grenoble, France

Each time we go to Grenoble, we go to the Quartier Saint-Laurent aka Le Quartier des Italiens or Italian neighborhood, named because of the important Italian community there. 

It is a nice area, located on one side if the Isère river and in the bottom of the Bastille that used to be a fortress, built in 1592 on the South end part of the Chartreuse mountain. It is now a ruin, with just few restaurants on top of the hill, where people like to go to get some fresh air, either walking or taking the "bulles", a spherical cable car. 

We looked at all the pizzeria there to try to find one with Saint-Marcellin, a soft cheese made of cow's milk, named after a small town nearby where they produce this divine cheese. Unfortunately, we could not find it, so we opted for Le Festival des Pizzas, simply because they were the only one proposing a five cheese pizza!

That is what I ordered in fact. Cooked in a wood fire oven for a couple of minutes, it had emmental, goat, reblochon, blue and mozzarella cheese. 

I really liked the crust, the outside being all puffed up

My trip to Europe: Greg and Jerry's Burger and Fries in Grenoble, France

I am always curious to see how food is evolving in France, French cuisine being considered one of the best, and French people being very protective about it. Each time I go to France, I see a change: there are more and more fast food, whether it is kebab places (I saw one called "Batman Kebab"!), pizza with chains like Domino's or Pizza Hut, or fast food like MacDonald's, the latter being very popular with the younger crowd. I read recently that Burger King will make a comeback soon after more than a decade of absence, now that they see a profitable market, not anymore dominated by MacDonald's. KFC is also very popular there and plans to open many restaurants across the country. 

Another phenomenon I noticed in the past few years is the emergence of delivery: when I was living in Paris, it was only limited to pizza and paella. Now, more and more, I see delivery for sushi, pizza (I even saw a pizza ATM!) and burgers. 

In fact, I discovered Greg and Jerry's on a flyer at the hotel we were staying in. It is a burger place that serves ice cream from Ben & Jerry's, hence the name, that has been opened for more than six years, but relocated to that place two years ago. 

Very colorful with its red banquette and stools, they try to transport you to the heart of America; normal considering that they only serve burgers. Geared towards carnivores (no veggie burger there), they propose a nice selection of specialty burgers, some similar to the one we have here, like the classic cheese that we tried:

Others reinvented with a French twist, like the Best Mountain, made with reblochon cheese, bacon and potatoes, or the Parisian, made with emmental, chèvre (goat) and blue cheese, that we also tasted. 

The way it works is that you first order at the counter, and then, they will bring it to your table. 

My Trip to Europe: La Crêperie de Gordes in Grenoble, France

As we were having lunch with my friend Chrystelle, we decided to try La Crêperie de Gordes, get some crêpes. When I say crêpes, I may want to say galettes as they say in Bretagne where this delicious dish is coming from. The difference? A galette is made with buckwheat (Farine de sarrazin in French) and a crêpe with bread flour (Farine de froment). 

La Crêperie de Gordes is a nice place: they have a big terrace, perfect when weather permits, as it did when we went, as well as a fantastic decor inside, the theme being the Alpes and ski rather than Bretagne region. They have for instance a replica of a ski slope full of playmobil, a popular children toy. 

As well as an authentic cable car where two people can eat. 

The menu is fairly big, with lots of choices for crêpes that can satisfy the carnivores, as well as the vegetarian. Asking them to remove an ingredient or alter the crêpe slightly does not seem to be a problem. 

Jodi decided to order the pear and blue cheese crêpe (the crêpe bleuet) .

My trip to Europe: Le Marrakech, Moroccan restaurant in Grenoble, France

We went to Le Marrakech, a Moroccan restaurant, two years ago and were still talking about it, wanting to go back to eat some of their couscous or tagines. And we did come back this time, with my Dad, brother Hervé, sister in law Rosa and nephew Valentin. 

This place is spectacular, not only because of the Moroccan cuisine, but also because of the fabulous decor that transports you to Morocco as soon as you enter the restaurant. 

I went to Morocco 15 years ago, in a trip through the desert, with stops in Marrakech, with its crowded soukh, and Ouarzazatte, sleeping and eating under a tent, in the middle of the dunes. There, I discovered the Moroccan mint tea that is more flavorful than the packets you can buy in stores, and deliciously sweet, perfect to help with digestion. We in fact started and finished our meal with it. 

If you are not into tea, they also have some local wine bottles. 

I got to try some appetizers that were delicious, such as the brick kefta, a phyllo like sheet rolled like a cigar, filled with ground meat: